Sunday, April 5, 2009

2006 Pierre Morey Bourgogne-Aligoté

Type White
Producer Pierre Morey
Variety Aligoté
Country France
Region Burgundy
Appellation Bourgogne-Aligoté

The Little Wooden Guy presents a really interesting wine, one well worth finding and trying for yourself.

Night One

Wow! The nose darned near knocks you out of your seat. What the heck is that? Hang on a minute. Let me think about this one. There are certainly apples, but that is not all. Tons of crushed stone are mixed with white grapefruit pith (not juicy fruit or pungent peel, but lightly-grapefruit-scented pith). There are also some green aromas I can not quite put my finger on, including a tiny speck of fresh crisp asparagus.

The palate is equally startling, and equally challenging. I will start by saying this is clearly a food wine, bursting with strong flavors that would complement many different choices. Okay, on with the review (we'll return to food recommendations later). The primary flavors are still white grapefruit pith and green apple. There is also some stone and, curiously a bit of brass. Apple sneaks out from behind the pith from mid-palate to finish. There is also a little lemon zest on the mid-palate.

Night Two

The nose is far milder on Night Two. It does not blow your nose away from the glass with the same wall of aromas it presented on Night One. That might just be because it was colder, coming from the refrigerator on Night Two, and the cellar on Night One. We will give it some time to see if that is the difference. The aromas are similar to Night One, just more muted. It presents green apple, crushed stone, and citrus pith. On Night Two, the pith is more reminiscent of lime than white grapefruit, with a bit of lime zest mixed into the blend.

The palate, too, is similar to Night One, though softer. Green apple is stronger, and citrus pith is now secondary, but both flavors are still there. The real difference comes at the end of the mid-palate, when a little butter makes an appearance.

This is a fascinating wine, a food wine. I would not select it with anything heavily spiced, as that would be competition, not enjoyment. But pair it with something simple but firmly-flavored, fresh clams or oysters without any sauce, and I think you would have a match made in, well, Burgundy.

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